15:39, Drake Passage
12:39, Chicago
np: Leonard Cohen, “Songs of Love and Hate”
Finally, stable power and some time to sit. Stomach mildly settled, though it could blow at any moment. Currently sailing the eerily calm Drake Passage en route to the Antarctic Peninsula.
This notoriously rough sea is treating us well this day, but of course I’ve just jinxed our fortune by saying that. It is still another day to reach our destination. Who knows what the waters have in store for us as the horizon bobs in and out of view from my stateroom. Kind of ironic that the only “smooth sailing” thus far has been on the sea itself. Now that I’m in better spirits, I won’t go too much into my disastrous arrival, as it’s pretty indelibly etched in my memory.
The first 24 hours featured lost luggage (concern…fear… panic… desperation…); swindling taxi drivers (anger… fear… stupidity… surrender…); exorbitant long distance phone call charges; extended-family feuds; emergency shopping in a Santiago department store for replacement clothing; shoddy completion of a Princeton application; and a 4:45 wake-up call.
The 24 hours since then have been sublime, even given the 4:45 wake-up call to fly down to Tierra del Fuego. There was a slight delay in deplaning in Ushuaia due to some international miscommunication, but despite being held captive on an Airbus for over an hour, the group remained in generally good spirits. Our time in Ushuaia began with Argentinian barbeque. (Completely wasted on me…) Lunch was followed by a performance, featuring our adorable servers. Just as in Libya, the boys are the featured dancers. Girls are at least allowed to dance, but they served as little more than window dressing, cheerleaders to the boys boot-tapping antics. I try not to judge.
During the course of lunch, the skies poured rain, but we intrepid folks (or perhaps the ones who know we’ll probably never be here again) embarked upon a misty tour of Tierra del Fuego National Park. By the time we reached our destination, the sun prevailed and lit up a Patagonian paradise. It’s a pity we didn’t have a day or two to hike around the mountains.
After too brief a tour, the bus wound its way back to Ushuaia and to the docks where we would board the Clipper Adventurer. Ushuaia is surprisingly populated (60,000) and developed (Honda & Mercedes dealers, shopping districts, mines, golf courses, etc). We arrived at the docks, and after weaving through colorful blocks of freighter boxes awaiting shipment, we climbed the gangway stairs to our floating hotel, and were greeted with warm chocolate chip cookies. Always a good sign.
Our stateroom is cozy. I feel like I’m camping. Between my mom and Vanessa and Falabella department store, I’ve been able to scrape together enough clothing. I think. The travel company tracked down some waterproof boots and pants for me. Amazing. Of all the trips to lose your luggage on… If one can make it through ANTARCTICA with this little amount of “stuff” (albeit mostly borrowed), one can certainly make it anywhere else in the world on a backpack. I’m curious to see how I will pack for my next trip.
The crew of the ship is fantastic. Zegrahm certainly draws the heavy hitters: the first American to climb Mount Everest, and the first human to summit K2; one of the best nature and wildlife photographers in the world; a world-class geologist who spent years conducting research for the British Antarctic Survey; a top ornithologist; and so on. We've made friends with a lot of the staff, already. Jonny is best bros with Jonathan, The Bird Guy, and another birder himself. Sitting next to him in the National Park, I got my own private ornithology lesson. Gretchen is very nice, down-to-earth and reminds me so much of Rachel. She and I are literally and figuratively in the same boat: she lost her luggage, too.
Woke up around 8:30 today just in time to grab a bagel and some fruit for breakfast before Jonathan’s lecture. He spoke on albatrosses, a talk that looked rather dry on paper, a talk I considered skipping because we all know my feeling on birds, but a talk that in the end, I felt I should go to given that this is what I’m here to do. It was brilliant! He is an excellent speaker and very clearly engaged the group into his passion. After the talk, I immediately went up on deck to watch the birds trailing the ship. Then there was a talk on ice by Kevin, which was very fun. He’s a little hokey and a little corny, but it works. Reminds me of someone, but I can’t quite place it.
Now, I’ve just woken from a nap and I’m currently skipping a talk by the guy from the Audobon Society. But lucky for the lazy and sick, lectures are broadcast over the ship’s PA system. I am very happy that my laptop is working because I do not have a paper travel journal. It is charging well, although slowly and hotly.
That’s about it for now. I’ll wax poetic later. Just wanted to get some of this out.
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