i heart muammar

thank you muammar, we got our visas!!



at the VERY LAST MINUTE POSSIBLE.
so last minute, i had already contacted everyone on the tour to tell them it was cancelled.
(after putting up a sad hissy tantrum myself.)
called them all back on friday to say PSYCH.

we're going! we're going! i can't believe we're going!

now, i will freak out.
so much to do!

where can i get a big desert hat in chicago??

UNCANCELLED!

CANCELLED

the waiting game...

...continues.

february 15, and no definitive word on our libyan visas. the latest updates all point to all systems go, but as i've learned all too well over the past three months, nothing is for certain in the middle east until you flash your passport at the border.

most recent news says libya is enforcing a $117 "eclipse tax" on all travelers in the country during the time of the total eclipse (which is passing directly through southern libya), regardless of whether you're in the line of solar fire or not (we'll be about 150 miles or so off its path). while this blows for the people who have to pay it, i'm looking at the positive: that they're banking -- literally -- on letting tourists in their country. good news for us.

fingers toes and nose still crossed!

boil it, cook it, peel it, or forget it

yesterday i received a fat packet of pre-departure reading materials: detailed itineraries, flight information, cultural customs, health precautions, history & culture articles, maps, name tag, water bottle strap, luggage belt, etc. this is getting for real.

still no word on my passport, though. v is for visa this valentine's day.

of note:

- in 14 pt bold, capital letters: ALCOHOL IS BANNED IN LIBYA.
- cash is preferred in new, unmarked bills.
- bring rubber shoes for the desert showers... "desert shower" seems to border on the oxymoronic.
- also for the desert: tissues for "nature stops". are we required to then tote the nature-soiled tissues to the nearest bin?
- photo passes are required at all archaeological sites and museums, about $4 each. times twenty-five days or so...
- "if you are using a digital camera bring extra batteries as it will be difficult to recharge your battery in the desert." you don't say.
- "please do not photograph anything military in nature, including bridges, roadblocks, and security posts." bridges?
- it would behoove me to avoid TD -- travelers' diarrhea -- at all costs. resist the lure of bright shiny fresh fruits and vegetables. brush teeth with bottled water. don't even think of touching the food or water on an internal flight. in fact, just don't touch anything.

when i think that this is more hassle than it's worth, i look at this (especially poignant as it's snowing sideways right now):

28 days earlier

to set the scene, a hardcover first edition of the art of travel by alain de botton--author of the moment--lies just to my left. a chicago to oakland boarding pass holds my page, 85 to be precise. an upward glance leads to shelves packed with lonely planet guides and pocket phrasebooks. (note to self: get the arabic version). haven't been to all of those places, but i collect them just in case. and ok, maybe because it makes me feel all worldly. but, i'm planning on getting to them all...

twenty-eight days from today i depart* for twenty-eight days in the desert. fully aware that it's not every day one is offered a month-long all expenses-paid jaunt to egypt and libya, i figured i'd start a blog about it.

i like to go places. this is where i will tell you all about them.

* maybe. there's a slight visa sitch with the libyans: they don't want us in their country. i'll find out feb 14/15 if this is for sure. until then, i'm just writing for kicks. you know, getting my hopes all up for the crushing.