handwritten post no. 2

Tuesday, March 21
about 10am, somewhere in Libya
On the bus

We left Susa this morning, en route to Benghazi where we will board an evening flight to Tripoli. Along the way, we stop at three sites: Qasr Lebia, Ptolemais, and Tocra.



We've just left Qasr Lebia. (Qasr is Arabic for castle. Or maybe I should say castle is English for qasr.) The site was small, but really interesting, most of all for the marvelous whimsical mosaics found there. You approach the qasr from the bottom of the hill, and it looks like a little sanstone Lego castle. The landscape is peppered with bright, blooming trees and shrubs, while spring flowers (poppies, mostly) sprout underfoot. The weather is perfect. The mosaics originally resided in the eastern church, but have put under cover in a small museum. Wildly colorful, thematically varied depictions of animals (as predator, prey, and lollygagging creature) dominate, bu there are also scenes of humans (gods and mortals alike) and castles and the lighthouse at Alexandria. I suppose "folk" is the term for the content.





Leaving the site, we bumped into the French group staying at our hotel, yet again. I swear we're going to see them all the way to Tripoli. Meals at the hotel are quite the international affairs: French, Germans, Italians, Canadians, and us Yanks. Actually, one of our people was chatting with a Canadian who said, "I thought Americans weren't allowed in Libya." Bet that's a selling point for some folks.

Going back again, yesterday (Monday) was pretty great. Our first stop was Apollonia, right across the street from the hotel. More Roman and Byzantine riuns, all very lovely, but its location is unreal, perched on a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean. So pretty, agagin. The wind was hot and fierce, though. Gale force, blowing me over a few times. (They were blowing all night before, too. Woke me up several times. And what I had initially said was rain coming down turned out to be, in fact, SAND. Pelting our hotel all the way upt o the 7th floor.)



After Apollonia, we boarded the bus for the most picturesque drive. The view was stunning. Just when I think that sea can't get any more striking, it does. Our second stop, L'Atrun had the most amazing scenery seen yet (I took at least three dozens photos so you'll see). Rolling green mountains dropping sheer down to the water below, which is so crystal you can see the rocks continue below. Dare I say, it was breathtaking. The site has two churches, probably the most exquisitely located places of worship. The marble was in excellent condition and parts of the structures have been reconstructed.





And then, when the elevating temperature and winds had just about gotten to me, a cool, sweet breeze floated up off the sea. It was delicious. I stood on a rock for a solid ten minutes taking it in.



Next stop, Ras al Hillal. Another Byzantine church, or what remains of it. Nice mosaics, but by this point I'm a little churched out.

Last stop before lunch (yes, all this before lunch) was a brief peek at the largest cave in Africa. It was pretty cool, plus now I can say I've been to the largest cave in Africa. So huge, though I have no basis for comparison since I'm not a cave-dweller. Local farmers still use it in the winter months; you can see the smoke charred on the walls from their fires.



Last site for the day (after lunch) was Slonta. Not really a site, actually, more like a curiosity. It's a little area, about 200 sq. ft., of reliefs carved right into the stone. A grotto I think it was called? The scenes are intriguing, weeping and moourning people, the four seasons, a cow, a crying boy. No one really knows what it means or even to when it dates, but it is unlike any rock-cut scenes anywhere else in Libya. You have to rely on your imagination a bit to see some of the images, though. It's like Magic Eye in the rock.



Came back to the hotel and it was still early so a couple of us walked into "town." Caused a bit of a stir walking through the main strip (all of two blocks with about two dozen shops). Got some good shots of the curious and mostly friendly people, including a butcher and a baker (but no candlestick maker).





Then I ate three chocolate covered cream puffs at dinner and went to bed. Moo.