Been through the desert on a horse with no name...

Thursday, March 30
9:28 pm
Ubari Camp, Libya

Three more days. Then the journey home begins. So excited, I can taste it.

The past 24 hours have been rather taxing, on mind, body and spirit. We spent a total of 8 hours driving today to visit ONE site for an hour plus lunch. The drive was arduous, the terrain unforgiving. Fumes, kicked up dust and sand, broiling hot. A quarter of the drive took us over a minefield of scattered shattered rocks, a landscape Herodotus appropriately referred to as "the end of the world" and is now known as the Ocean of Stone. My driver for today, Mohammed, ably navigated the protruding obstacles, but not without jolting my back and stomach in every direction. It was a drive that led me to thinking, what in the hell are we doing out here?



The rocks littering the flat flat FLAT ground are black like lava on top, earthen red on bottom. Not sure what the story is on that, but I snagged a few specimens to ask those that might. Our epic trek came to a bumping halt at lunchtime, high noon, at which point it was decided to forego the meal and go straight to the site, under the sizzling sun. Animals incised in the rock face. Yay. I love me some giraffes, I do, and it's cool they're here and they're 8,000 years old and well-executed. But, I and my 2,000 parts did not deem it worthy of 8 hours of vehicular hell, enhanced ever more by the voracious flies.



The enterprising Tuaregs (the nomads of the Sahara) made sure to set up shop just beside our picnic table. I swear, they must have a secret smoke signal or something because they have materialized out of thin air to sell their wares at just about every stop we've made, including the gas station! Persistent bunch, they are. Most speak French, too, so I've had reasonable success on the bargaining table.



Came back to the camp, exhausted, deflated, sand-ridden. Had a little drama with a sick traveler. French chef asked for my telephone number (??) after dinner. Ugh. I wrote a whole entry about that situation in my head in the car today. It'll find it's way onto paper soon enough. For the first time on this entire trip, I was scared.

Bon soir.

Nearing the end

Saturday, April 1
10:12 pm
Acacus Camp, Libya

Though technically we will be here for another full night, this feels like our last night in Libya, and thus the trip. Crazy. We spend all day into night traveling tomorrow, first driving from the desert to Sabha (thankfully no hotel stay there...), then a night flight to Tripoli, then the first leg of our voyage home begins at 4am, if not sooner. There will be no sleeping tomorrow night in the cushy Corinthia bed. I'll never get up.

Today was spent on the road, again. Scenery was, for the most part, jaw dropping. Temperature, idly scorching. (The thermometer in the car read 42 degrees C. That's about 110 F.) We were traveling into the depths of the Acacus Mountain range to see some ancient rock paintings. We've been seeing these images on paper and reproduced in museums throughout the trip, so it was coming full circle to see them in situ. With the end of today, I officially retire my "archaeological shoes". Thanks, Onitsuka Tiger!







A part of me is sad, and maybe even not quite ready to be leaving. This past week in the camps has been really fun, and I've grown quite fond of the boys driving us silly folks around to these remote locations at the end of the world to look at rock scribbles. It's a familial atmosphere, still a boys club by all means, but they're good-natured kids doing the best and making the best of what they've got. (And given that they're all about my age, they're a welcome respite from the incessant talk of ailments, medication, and grandchildren among my group...) I'm going to miss them all, each one having such distinct personality traits. Salem and Abrahem were my homeboys to joke around with, Khalim's like the Libyan Justin Timberlake with a thousand-watt smile, Khalid's the wildchild, Abdullah and Mohammed have this quiet, dark intensity that melts when music plays, Awad is the reluctant leader of the pack. None of them spoke English, but we still managed to communicate in broken Arabinglish. My Arabic vocabulary is in the double digits now. Yala bina!


Some of the boys: Khalid, Awad, and Abrahem

Sahara

Wednesday, March 29
about 6:45 pm
Ubari Camp, Ubari Sand Sea, Sahara, Libya

We've arrived at the first of our desert camps, and oh what a ride it was getting here. Another one of those jaw-dropping, never in my life would I dream I'd be doing this moments. (I'm happy to note that despite the abundance of those moments, each is just as thrilling as the next. Not jaded, yet.) Our desert chariots greeted us at the door to our hotel, which I was elated to be leaving. We reached the edge of the desert in about ten minutes, and from there it was a rollercoaster of undulating sand dunes. Seriously. The Jeeps roared up and over the hills, sometimes at 50, 60 degree angles. Butterflies in the tummy, cool breeze blowing through the windows, racing through the sands, bump bump bump. Unfrickinreal. The landscape is two colors: sand and sky. Nothing else, anywhere, in any direction. I'm hurdling mountains of sand in the Sahara in a Toyota Land Cruiser driven by a Libyan named Abrahem who doesn't speak English. WTF, is this my life?



Oh yeah, and then around noon there was a little astronomical occurrence that was garnering a bit of fuss -- a total solar eclipse. Some groups came to Libya to specifically witness those four minutes, but it was just a pretty nice side benefit for our trip. Our location was about 150 miles from the total path, so we saw about 85/90% eclipse. Still pretty cool. The sky turned an eeerie shade of blue/gray and Abrahem had the special glasses you need to look straight at it.



After our impromptu science lesson in the sand, more dune-buggy antics ensued. One of the 4x4s got a flat, and I wish I timed them because I've never seen a tire changed so fast in my life, in the desert sand no less. like to see the NASCAR chumps do that.



We stopped at the four main Ubari lakes, sprawling oases rising out of the sand. They are stunning! Palm fringed and completely calm and still (except for the unabashed Germans swimming in their skivvies), with amazing relections of the surrounding trees and towering dunes. They're as salty as the Dead Sea. Postcard material, no doubt. The weather has yet again been amazing, not too hot and downright cool at first, very little wind.



Our convoy of six 4x4s (plus the grub truck) works really well together, each of them looking out for the others. It's enthralling to watch the other cars up ahead scale a steep wall of sand only to find yourself doing the same ten seconds later. The drivers are fantastic, brothers and cousins and friends all of them. At our frequent stops, they goof and pal around like ten year-old boys, and that spirit extends to the sands. No doubt they'd be going at double speed over these hills if they weren't toting a bunch of old folks (+ me) around the desert. They've all already learned my name (thanks to Salem, I'm sure). Wish I spoke Arabic! The chef at our camp is Moroccan, and speaks French, so I can parler avec him a bit.

Camp. WAY exceeds expectations. I have my own tent, and when I say tent think mini-circus big top. Two centered poles anchor the enclosure, and the circus-hued cloth drapes down about ten feet to the ground around the perimeter. Two twin beds, at least twelve feet apart, center table (with bowl of almonds and raisins and a banana), two side tables, armoire-ish thing, overhead light, POWER OUTLET, lantern, and two sitting chairs and a table outside. Facilities are way above average, too. Flushing toilets! Haven't seen the showers yet, but I hear there's hot water and good pressure. There's a 24-hour bathroom attendant, too.

All in all, this is just amazing. Reflecting on the past two or three days, the things I've seen and experienced and the people I've met -- I'm pretty effin lucky.

Sun is about to set. Can't miss this!


Saharan sands surrounding our camp, at sunset

Ew.

Tuesday, March 28
11:43 pm
Sabha, Libya

OK, I take back what I said about the Zliten hotel. That's like the Four Seasons compared to this. Forget Saran wrap, I'm looking for dead bodies. I bet this place has an hourly rate, if you know whaddimean.

On the road, again

Tuesday, March 28
5:57 pm
Driving through the Sahara to Sabha

I've unknowingly and regrettably stumbled into the world headquarters for Celine Dion fans. This is a new kind of hell.

Favorite rip-off, lost-in-translation items:

- Crust toothpaste
- Boreo cookies
- S & Ms candies
- Tayo Auto & Suzy trucks

and the winner, listed on a hotel laundry checklist:
- breast hanger

Immersion

Monday, March 27
11:38 pm
Ghadames, Libya

I just watched the sun set over three countries from the top of a Saharan sand dune. Then I danced with costumed Libyan boys. Good night.

Ghadames

Monday, March 27
2:53 pm
Ghadames, Libya

Unlikely as it seemed at the outset, Ghadames just may be my favorite city so far. Reason #1: We've just returned to the hotel for a siesta, because the whole town shuts down until the evening to escape the afternoon heat. That's my kind of thinking.



The drive here yesterday from Tripoli was long, but not so arduous. To break up the journey, we made a couple of stops: an old granary and the little town of Nalut. Both had remarkably preserved and intricately constructed granaries, little storerooms built one on top of each other giving the overall effect of a giant anthill. Traditional Berber mud architecture, but it looked like a big sand dune with holes. I climbed up to peek inside the dark chambers, and some still contained amphoras, the large clay storage jars.


Qasr al-Haj


Nalut

The stretch of road between Nalut and Ghadames gave us our first real glimpse of the desert, the Grand Erg Oriental. These region is called the Jebel Nafusa. Rippling piles of sand, sun bleached plateaus, smatterings of palm trees around scant oases. And, several herds of stubborn camels crossing the road, stopping traffic. Watching a spooked camel gallop out of the way of a blaring horn never failed to amuse.


Mohammed leaving our hotel

We arrived in Ghadames at about 6:15 pm. The majority of the town shares the mudbrick architecture of the sites we saw en route. I've never really been to the southwest, but a number of people compared the two, especially the terrain. Our hotel just opened six months ago, part of The Colonel's directive to increase tourism. It's lovely here, not only clean and liveable (no saran wrap needed), but comfortable and architecturally interesting. Meant to mimic the style of the old city.



Which it does to a tee. This morning, after a visit to the Ghadames Museum and some requisite shopping, we walked through the labyrinth of covered mud brick walls and alleys that comprise the Old City. The entire area is a UNESCO World Heritage site. No one lives there now (though it was inhabited until just two or three years ago by a woman who insisted she was born there, she was going to die there). But, the homes are still privately owned and it's used as a retreat from the summer heat. Outer walls are about a meter thick, 90% of the spaces are covered, with just a few slots for light, so it feels air-conditioned.


Courtyard at Ghadames

It's really a visually amazing place -- emphasis on maze. Benches are built right into and of the same mud brick as the walls along the "streets", as are the bed platforms and tables in our hotel. There are mosques, schools, and meeting places. Daily life was incredibly, almost shockingly segregated (as it still is today... had to check my principles at the door). Regarding publicspaces, only men are allowed at the mosques and in the meeting places; women are confined to the top floor and THE ROOF. (Except for designated times at the mosque, where I think I heard our guide say their main purpose was to clean.)



Our lunch was a surprise. Rather than stopping at restaurant as usual, we were led to a fully decorated traditional home, still in use (at least as a tourist stop), with carpets and pillows lining the floor, mirrors, baskets, tapestries and other handicraft adorning the walls right up to the ceiling.



We sat on the cushioned floor to eat, and our meal was brought out on large round silver trays with legs. Five to a tray. One of the local craft specialities are these brightly woven conical food covers, though they look more like little hats to me, so we got to see them in action. They're almost too pretty to use. Cousous and veggies (and lamb for the omnivores). It was so fantastic! One of the more "authentic" experiences yet.

Followed closely by my donning of the traditional Tuareg head scarf. I bought one at one of the many shops in the old city, thinking I'd give it to someone, but Salem (our security guy, pronounced "solemn", not like the cigarette) insisted on wrapping it up for me. It was kind of awesome, I'm digging the look. He was also wearing a scarf so we struck a pose for the cameras. I think all the old ladies in our group are crushing on him and his tight pants. He's becoming my homie on this trip, despite speaking about six words of English. Then the tables turned, and Libyans were taking pictures of ME. We ran into a group of teenage boys and all wanted their photo with me. Very cute. I would see them again later that evening.

As we wound our way through the districts of the old city, we'd pass a Japanese group every so often, filing past each other like opposing baseball teams exchanging forced pleasantries. I said konnichi wa and two ladies got all excited and held up the line.


Shoemaker in the shops

Then, at one of the many, many shopping stalls, we met a little boy named Mohammed, probably about two or three and the son of the craftsman. I got all Angelina Jolie and kind of wanted to take him home with me. The biggest brown eyes you've ever seen. Didn't make a sound, didn't move an inch. My kind of kid.

Now we are about to head out into the Sahara via 4x4 Jeeps to visit a haunted castle and watch the sunset. After that, it's dinner and a dance performance. I'm amped.

oh yes, the reason i'm here...

i forgot to tell you what we did yesterday. oops. luxury is blinding.


Leptis Magna theatre

the entire day was spent touring Leptis Magna, THE site of sites in Libya. it's phenomenal. magnificent. colossal. the city dates to the 7th century BC, but its heyday was the Roman period, during the reign of Augustus in the early ADs. at its peak, it was home to 80,000 people. it is by far the most complete ancient city we've visited, and it's only half excavated!



there are several intact arches, including the impressive reconstructed arch of septimius severus (a Roman emperor said to have been from Leptis). a grand theatre stretching three storeys high, with a killer view to the water. hadrianic baths which must have been an amazing structure in its day... giant outdoor swimming pool, cold baths (covered by a vaulted ceiling with turquoise and blue mosaics), warm baths, hot baths, changing area. wow, it's massive. and there were marble latrines! roman and punic marketplaces, with the ancient measuring devices still in place. and... a coliseum!


Leptis latrines


Coliseum view

close your eyes and you could picture battling gladiators, roaring crowds. it's dug right into the ground, so you approach it from above. just beside, between the coliseum and the sea, is the hippodrome, another site for races and contests. it was said that spectators would wander from one event to the other via a passageway between the two. of course, i was hellbent on finding it. i dropped down the cliffside into the hippodrome (of which not much remains), skirting some tricky rocks and sand, and meandered until i found the tunnel... which leads you straight out onto the field. it's soooooo neat. so neat. looking up at those seats, it's just immense. our whole group was still up on top, and i heard them shout, "there she is!" i yelled up, and my voice echoed throughout the whole stadium, which seats 16,000 people. they all snapped pics of me posing gladiator-style, so hopefully i'll get one or two. so neat.



then we went to the on-site museum, which had a lot of exquisite statues and mosaics they were wise to remove from the elements. however, the ridiculous highlight was the two-story triumphant portrait of Mr. Qaddafi himself in the lobby, greeting his people as they come through the door.



then we went to the icky hotel in nearby zliten and had yellow food for dinner. i watched a james bond flick and went to bed at 9:30.

zliten does have some pretty spots, however. see?



like i said before, tomorrow we ship off to the desert, which i am quite certain is not yet wired for internet. pretty sure my cellphone is going to be useless, too.

first stop is ghadames, an 8-hour drive to the southwest. it's a major desert trading post town, a stopping point for caravans. we get in pretty late, but still in time to catch a traditional dance performance. kinda amped for that. i bet it's beautiful.

from there we go... somewhere else whose name escapes me, but there's a hotel. it's after THAT that we pile into the 4x4 Jeeps and bounce over sand dunes til i vomit from motion sickness. four nights of camping out in "comfortable tents". i did get confirmation that there are beds, we're not actually sleeping on the ground. i'm getting really freaked out about the heat. it was hot at leptis, the hottest day so far, with bugs, and i was miserable. this will no doubt be worse.

one of the areas we're going to, the ubari, has the most stunning lakes rising from the sands. i can't wait to see those, hot and bugs be damned. and the acacus moutain region, which is right on the algerian border, also looks amazing. the famed prehistoric rock art, the main focus of our excursion down there, lives on the rock canvas.

this has been like three vacations in one. egypt seems like months ago now.

at home in opulence

back home! ... in tripoli, that is, at the corinthia. i'm getting far too attached to this hotel.

it initially seemed cruel to make us go from lavish indulgence to last night's well, let's be honest, dump in zliten (we were hunting for saran wrap to cover the beds.. i ended up making a cocoon out of a seemingly safe blanket from the closet). it just makes me appreciate this place even more.

and holy crap: i scored a junior suite this time. it's bigger than my apartment. just when you think it doesn't get any better... damn. let's compare:

zliten:
- cracked toilet seat
- stained bedspread
- no light bulb in the lamp
- dim, buzzing overhead lighting
- drip drop of hot water
- full stream of yellow cold water
- mosquitoes
- had to keep curtains wide open to get A/C, street light pouring in
- quarter-size dollop of sauce on my spaghetti

tripoli:
- TWO bathrooms
- TWO TVs, including a flat screen in the bedroom
- TWO seating areas beside giant picture windows with a 24th floor view of the sea
- L-shaped desk as big as my office
- high-class toiletries (all of which i will be stealing)
- real terrycloth bathrobes
- complimentary apples, nuts, and chocolates on the table

my job is hard sometimes.

this is really just to soften us up for what's to come: two night's of spartan accommodation before the camp out in the sahara.

back to real time posting.. for now

Thursday, March 23 (I think..)
8:12 pm, Tripoli

I'm losing track of what day it is.

Tripoli has been FUN. Yesterday we got to explore the city, which was not only a welcome break from hiking over ruins all day, it meant a change of SHOES. Hello sandals!

We started off as a group at the Jamahiriya Museum, the national museum of Libya. First few floors are filled with archaeological artifacts found from throughout the country from way back when to not so long ago. It's a beautiful museum, very well arranged and displayed. But all of the labels are in Arabic... As is everything in Tripoli, and most of Libya. One of Qaddafi's edicts I suppose. Keep out the Western influence.


Qaddafi's VW bug



We had a guide through the archaeological floors, then we were left on our own. I wandered up to the top floor, history of the military and Libyan Resistance. Our guide insisted on coming with, and I see why. Gone were the loafing college kid museum guards. Up there, it's men in suits watching your every move. I was too self-conscious to take a photo. We were greeted by a gigantic photo of Qaddafi at the top of the stairs, then taken through the resistance against the Italian occupation and the rise of The Colonel. Helloooooo propaganda. There are two galleries devoted entirely to gifts given to the man. The next gallery is full of photos of him shaking hands with various world leaders and fan letters from his people (wish I could read Arabic...). Then there's the oil room. It was a little creepy, to be honest. Even creepier is that those galleries share the floor with the taxidermy, so in my attempt to flee the Libyan SS guards, I run into a gazelle being chewed by a coyote or something. No happy nature scenes here, folks. Our guide made a specific effort to point out the oddities case: two-headed cows, three-legged chicken, a sheep with no eyes. No thanks! Ran back to the lobby.

Then the fun began.



We wandered through the old city, where all the suqs and shops are located. Not as chaotic as the one bazaar we happened upon in Egypt, but this was primarily tourist stuff; that one was actual functional goods for everyday people. I finally got to flex my shopping muscles. Mohammad, one of our guides (actually, our only since Linda fired the other guy) came along with me to assist with the pricing... We tore through that joint. My arms were full in about 15 minutes. Still need to get some gifts for people though.



Tripoli is a lot more, eh, advanced than I expected. People here are much more stylish than in the rest of the country, and Egypt even. The clothing is much tighter. Women still wear headscarves, though not as much as in Egypt, and almost all are drenched in makeup. The catcalls have resumed. Maybe I should wrap my scarf around my head instead of my neck. Thinking about looking into a fake wedding ring, too. After touring today, we had the afternoon off. I hung out at home, as I've taken to calling our hotel, then went back to the suq on my own. (It's really close to the hotel.) Of course, everyone else in the group had the same idea so I strolled around with a few people once I got there.



Oh yeah, touring. The reason I'm here. We went to Sabratha this morning, one of the sites to see in Libya (the other being Leptis Magna, tomorrow's destination). It's another huge site, very well-preserved, right on the Mediterranean coast, as all of these sites are. The shining star of this spot is the theater, which has been impressively reconstructed. Three storeys tall, beautiful carvings and reliefs still in tact. The weather was once again amazing, so the beige stone really popped against the sea and the sky.




Wall mosaic at Sabratha

Now, I've just returned from my urban exploration. Thinking about taking a bath and ordering room service. Why not?? I'm getting a little sick of being around people, which is not to say that I want to go home (though I am counting down the days... 11 to go), I just want some alone time.

Tomorrow we drive east to Leptis Magna, where we'll be all day. It's far enough out that we're staying in a local hotel instead of coming back to the palace. Bummer. But we'll be back here the night after, which is the last night of the "official" tour before the extension into the Sahara begins. Some people will be going home. The rest of us will be heading south in 4x4s over the sand dunes.

handwritten post, no. 3

Wednesday, March 22
3:38pm, Tripoli

Sitting in the lobby of the swankiest hotel I've ever been in, let alone STAYED in. Yowza.

RECAP!

I think we left off at Qasr Lebia, still in Cyrenaica/Susa. From there, it was on to Ptolemais, the site that the OI partially excavated in the 1950s, and that has only been 10% excavated overall. The sites here are leaving a bit more to the imagination than in Egypt, mostly due to the absence of inscriptions. You could have the same pile of rubble in Egypt, but there'd be hieroglpyhs scrawled all over.



We had a great guide through the site, a city founded by Ptolemy I. What was interesting about it (to me) was the clear evidence of of roads. People WALKED here. You can see the major intersections. Most of the area is reduced to rockpiles, save for some exceptional spots, but the roads persevered. Roman speciality, right? You could even seen the curbs sometimes. Oh, and the chariot wheel tracks were still visible! Really brought the place alive-- evidence of actual human USE. Towering temples and statues are great, but a bit sterile. There was also a swimming pool in the main palace. Guess the Ptolemies found time for leisure between their many scandalous escapades. The cisterns were the highlight, though. Vast cavernous underwater vats for fresh water storage. We got to go down exploring.



The little gift shop was also the first sighting of the famed Qaddafi watches. I held off, figuring I'd get a better price in Tripoli (and I have).

After Ptolemais, we went to Tocra/Taucheira. The only memorable feature of this site was our guide. He was FABULOUS, in the most fabulous sense of the word. Totally clad in traditional Libyan garb, flowing tunic and pants with a decorative robe over top, turban wrapped on his head, but completely Western accessorized. Ray Ban sunglasses (think 80s, Risky Business-era Tom Cruise), bling bling silver watch, constantly ringing cellphone, cigarette dangling from his lips. And of course, he's an actor! Knew every stone on the site though.



After the site, we drove to Benghazi, the largest city in the area. Ate dinner at a Turkish restaurant then were hustled off to the warehouse they call their airport for our flight to Tripoli. That was an experience.

It was nearly 11 when we got to our hotel in Tripoli, and I was all ready to crash. Then I saw my room. I feel like a little kid lost in a five-star hotel. Giant fluffy bed, sofa, arm chairs, desk, armoir, TV entertainment center, separate bath and shower, all brand-new, all marble, all smartly decorated, view to the sea. Chocolate on my pillow! I've been craving dark chocolate for over a week now.

And the best part: my cell phone service kicked back in. Return to civilization!

handwritten post no. 2

Tuesday, March 21
about 10am, somewhere in Libya
On the bus

We left Susa this morning, en route to Benghazi where we will board an evening flight to Tripoli. Along the way, we stop at three sites: Qasr Lebia, Ptolemais, and Tocra.



We've just left Qasr Lebia. (Qasr is Arabic for castle. Or maybe I should say castle is English for qasr.) The site was small, but really interesting, most of all for the marvelous whimsical mosaics found there. You approach the qasr from the bottom of the hill, and it looks like a little sanstone Lego castle. The landscape is peppered with bright, blooming trees and shrubs, while spring flowers (poppies, mostly) sprout underfoot. The weather is perfect. The mosaics originally resided in the eastern church, but have put under cover in a small museum. Wildly colorful, thematically varied depictions of animals (as predator, prey, and lollygagging creature) dominate, bu there are also scenes of humans (gods and mortals alike) and castles and the lighthouse at Alexandria. I suppose "folk" is the term for the content.





Leaving the site, we bumped into the French group staying at our hotel, yet again. I swear we're going to see them all the way to Tripoli. Meals at the hotel are quite the international affairs: French, Germans, Italians, Canadians, and us Yanks. Actually, one of our people was chatting with a Canadian who said, "I thought Americans weren't allowed in Libya." Bet that's a selling point for some folks.

Going back again, yesterday (Monday) was pretty great. Our first stop was Apollonia, right across the street from the hotel. More Roman and Byzantine riuns, all very lovely, but its location is unreal, perched on a cliff overlooking the Mediterranean. So pretty, agagin. The wind was hot and fierce, though. Gale force, blowing me over a few times. (They were blowing all night before, too. Woke me up several times. And what I had initially said was rain coming down turned out to be, in fact, SAND. Pelting our hotel all the way upt o the 7th floor.)



After Apollonia, we boarded the bus for the most picturesque drive. The view was stunning. Just when I think that sea can't get any more striking, it does. Our second stop, L'Atrun had the most amazing scenery seen yet (I took at least three dozens photos so you'll see). Rolling green mountains dropping sheer down to the water below, which is so crystal you can see the rocks continue below. Dare I say, it was breathtaking. The site has two churches, probably the most exquisitely located places of worship. The marble was in excellent condition and parts of the structures have been reconstructed.





And then, when the elevating temperature and winds had just about gotten to me, a cool, sweet breeze floated up off the sea. It was delicious. I stood on a rock for a solid ten minutes taking it in.



Next stop, Ras al Hillal. Another Byzantine church, or what remains of it. Nice mosaics, but by this point I'm a little churched out.

Last stop before lunch (yes, all this before lunch) was a brief peek at the largest cave in Africa. It was pretty cool, plus now I can say I've been to the largest cave in Africa. So huge, though I have no basis for comparison since I'm not a cave-dweller. Local farmers still use it in the winter months; you can see the smoke charred on the walls from their fires.



Last site for the day (after lunch) was Slonta. Not really a site, actually, more like a curiosity. It's a little area, about 200 sq. ft., of reliefs carved right into the stone. A grotto I think it was called? The scenes are intriguing, weeping and moourning people, the four seasons, a cow, a crying boy. No one really knows what it means or even to when it dates, but it is unlike any rock-cut scenes anywhere else in Libya. You have to rely on your imagination a bit to see some of the images, though. It's like Magic Eye in the rock.



Came back to the hotel and it was still early so a couple of us walked into "town." Caused a bit of a stir walking through the main strip (all of two blocks with about two dozen shops). Got some good shots of the curious and mostly friendly people, including a butcher and a baker (but no candlestick maker).





Then I ate three chocolate covered cream puffs at dinner and went to bed. Moo.